Message from Naples

From former member Susan DeBolfo

I have had a great trip so far. The flight with Singapore Airlines was terrific and very comfortable. Stopover for 7 hours at transit hotel was a good idea and a chance to shower and sleep.  Exit from Rome Airport was over in 30 minutes even though it was busy.  So easy, it puts us to shame!

My first stop at Ostia Antica was great.  It is 15 minutes from airport and about 45 mins by train from Rome.  Italian drivers remain the same.  No rules!  Overtake on double lines against oncoming traffic if there is a string of cars in front or even better overtake on left where there is a small footpath forcing the taxi you are in to cross over the road to oncoming traffic.  Lucky everyone seems to know this will happen and moves over obligingly.  All this is done when legal speed limit is 50 km/hr but everyone is doing at least 80 km/hr. Don't  ask about roundabouts! Cars never stop at pedestrian crossings so,with courage, you just go, they and scooters just whiz around you!  No place for hesitation!

My reason for staying at Ostia was to see the archaeological site.  The town used to be the old port city of Ancient Rome and largely went undiscovered until 19 th century.  It was amazing.  So well preserved with warehouses, shops with mosaics out front to signify what was being sold, 20 bath houses, communal toilets and the first apartment blocks built for workers.  An amphitheatre to seat 4000 and still used today although 1 storey lower. Of course, cemetery, temples, forums and larger houses.  It was a much larger site than mentioned in books who said 2 - 3 hours would suffice.  I spent 7 hrs, admittedly slow, and did not come close to seeing it all.  It was just like a town that had been deserted a few hundred years ago!  The construction of these buildings amazes me!

After 3 days I then took 3 trains to Naples.  All trains on time, clean, good connections and well sign posted.  A ticket on their metro the equivalent of Frankston to city costs 1.50€ one way! It covers all trains and buses you need to use in 75 mins!  They have a met card system that works well.  Our Metro could learn a lot!  I started on first train at 9:16am and arrived Naples at 12noon!

What can one say about Naples? Chaotic, crazy, traffic, African hawkers everywhere, some beautiful buildings side be side with neglected ones, narrow roads, washing hanging from windows, honking horns, nicely dressed males and badly dressed females except at the opera.  Lycra, top and bottom, 2 sizes too small is common or hipster jeans with short tops and underwear showing on the small Naples woman is not good.  Every bump, lump and roll is exaggerated.  This fashion applies to the young and those our age and well beyond!  Colours can be black, fluorescent, white but many favour leopard skin.  Boobs should be hanging out as much as possible and if the undies need adjusting, front or back, they just do it!  All is on show here as well as men having a good scratch as well! 

I saw a Verdi  opera last night at San Carlo and was relieved to see that some woman can look good.  Still cannot cope with adjusting knickers, in public, front on, at interval!  The performance, as is the theatre, were amazing.  I have also been to the main archaeological museum that holds most of the artefacts from Pompeii and it was outstanding.  The mosaics and wall frescos colours were unbelievable given from 79AD.   I have done several churches and castles that all seem to have archaeological ruins under them.   At the castle they have, under glass you walk on, the remains of bodies.  Quite spooky!  I also went to the Royal Palace and again it was beyond expectation.  Think a downsized version of Versailles!  I have eaten pizza at the world famous Da Michelle and had coffee at Gamberinus reputedly the best in Italy.  It's original building was beautiful like an old fashion Tea room!  So for all the chaos I am glad I am here.  It is certainly a character packed place especially when scooters decide the road is too busy and use the footpath.  No one complains nor seem to mind even police watching don't stop it!  

I have seen a couple of wedding parties and they reinforce that style does not go past Rome.  The groups were like drag queens from Kings Cross with make up to match!  I hope some of the photos come out but they may not as I was so shocked.  

My back is holding up well and I am taking the days easy.  The good thing about Naples is that there is a lot of seating around.  So I take advantage as I am happy to people watch.  Sleep has been good and I have even managed a few nights without night time tablet.  I think the Pain Dr was right.  A change of scene would help with spasms 100%.  I seem to have very few now especially those at night that woke me up!  I hope that lasts! My legs are still numb but I am used to that.  Mentally I am doing okay.  Even here I have found lovely places overlooking the bay where I can be still and quiet.  The hard times are going past shops and seeing things I know Christopher would love.  He always had an order for caps, t shirts and a car model to add to his collection.  

The weather has been great with only 1 rainy day and temperatures between 20C and 29C.  No humidity and a slight sea breeze.  A storm is due Wednesday so I guess that will test me! 

Thursday my friend Lin from US arrives and we are off for 4 days to Pompeii then off to our Greek tour.  Tomorrow another museum and if I can work it out, not easy, a boat trip to Ischia.  Signage in Naples is not great as are condition of roads and footpaths.  The same was in Ostia.  The locals tell me that there has been little money for repairs although in Naples and their buildings I think that goes back a very long time!  Their youth unemployment in Italy is now well over 30% and they are being hit with more taxes and less pension benefits.  Luckily the new government, just elected, is well liked and has calmed the people down.  The previous government did some of the tough stuff.  Now people are more resigned.